Is Burgundy threatened by a shortage of wine?

The Burgundy Wine Interprofessional Bureau (BIVB) is concerned about the possibility of a wine shortage by 2013. The reason: a very poor 2012 harvest combined with record sales.

Could Burgundy be a victim of its own success? The BIVB (interprofessional office of Burgundy wines) is sounding the alarm. At some winegrowers, plots were completely destroyed by bad weather or disease, while many others experienced losses of 50 to 70% of their harvest. The wine union fears a drying up of wine stocks in many areas of the region.

"NO WORRIES FOR THE BURGUNDY OF THE HAVE"

At the François and Antoine Jobard estate, in Meursault, the harvest has decreased by more than 50% compared to last year: "Since 2008, yields have been difficult to achieve and harvests have dropped by around 30% each year, except in 2009" says Antoine Jobard, at the head of the property. At Clos de Tart, in the Côte de Nuits, “from 26/27 hectos usually, we went to 14/15 hectos this year” explains the director Sylvain Pitiot. According to the latter, there is however no reason to be alarmed: “we are used to years with low yields. For small producers it will be hard, but for the Burgundy of the wealthy, there is nothing to worry about”.

At the Domaine du Clos du Roi in Bourgogne Coulanges, Magalie Bernard considers herself relatively spared: “In recent years, we have made sure to store and we have also avoided the problems of frost and disease. We are therefore a little better off than elsewhere in Burgundy. In 2012, this winegrower nevertheless lost a third of her production. “Half of my colleagues don't achieve their yields, as for me, I haven't achieved them since 2010. Winegrowers of my father's generation have never experienced this! she adds.

The weak harvest of the last vintage – the smallest since 1955 – is all the more alarming for the BIVB as it is combined with booming demand and record sales, in supermarkets (+5.8%) but also at exports (+15%), supported by the surge in Asian markets, because Europe – Belgium and the Netherlands in particular – is on the decline.

Antoine Jobard does not sell in supermarkets, but he has noticed a considerable increase in demand: "In addition to historical markets such as Germany or Great Britain, where sales are not weakening, new clienteles are emerging, such as in Lebanon, where I would never have thought of selling! Already, ten years ago, Italy and Spain had started the movement” he adds. “The Burgundy wine trade is doing well, claims Sylvain Pitiot, it is our customers who will be a little frustrated. But after all, it's better than thinking “but what am I going to do with all this wine”!

“It's mathematical: most of us don't have more than the equivalent of a vintage in stock, which isn't much. Those who work with large retailers must have considerable volumes to keep up with demand. If 2013 looks like 2012, some will undoubtedly find themselves out of stock,” explains Magalie Bernard. Again, she is doing well! By selling only to private individuals, to restaurants and a little in Belgium, this daughter of market gardeners converted winegrowers avoids the worst. “The domains will be in great demand by the trade, which will seek to fill the missing quantities” she anticipates.

“WE WILL SPREAD A LITTLE MORE BUTTER ON THE BREAD" 

Faced with this phenomenon, winegrowers are preparing for the worst to better manage their stock. At Clos de Tart, Sylvain Pitiot plans to relaunch old vintages on the market: “Reservations are made for that. We will spread a little more butter on the toast. »

“You have to smooth out, spread out the sales. Do not sell everything in six months so as not to be stripped afterwards for a year” confirms Antoine Jobard. He insists, the big buyers should not take over the others: "If we wanted to, we could sell everything to three customers, or if we listen to others, we would sell twice the harvest in Meursault 1er cru. ! You have to share, everyone should be able to have a little wine… Obviously in theory it's simple, but in practice much less so. »

Source: Agatha Petit
The French Wine Review
09 October 2012